Thursday, August 28, 2008

A Guide to Beers Available in Laos

Beerlao--Drink this. The 640ml bottles are a much better deal than the small bottles or cans. Nothing spectacular but a very good lager.

Beerlao Dark--Almost an ale and 1.5% stronger than Beerlao. This beer is merely ok.

Lane Xang--Beerlao's newest offering. It is sweeter and hoppier than Beerlao; it tries to be a craft beer and fails. The beer isn't terrible but I wouldn't drink it if there were other options available.

Tiger Beer--Despite all the money they spend on advertising, this beer is overpriced and tastes like piss.

Carlsberg--OK, but overpriced and not as good as Beerlao.

Heineken--See Carlsberg

Update 6/16/09:

ABC Stout--I saw this at the minimart and was even more excited that when I lost my virginity.  Beerlao is a great lager, but damnit, I miss other styles of beer.  I rushed home and poured the beer into a glass.  It was nice and dark, just like a stout should be.  I started getting excited.  I took a whiff and it smelled great.  At this point I was rock hard.  I took a sip and--ugh!  It tasted like a Guiness that someone dumped piss and rubbing alcohol into.  Fuck you whover brewed this abomination.  It's expensive too--10k for a small bottle and it's made in Laos.

Sunday, August 24, 2008

How Much Stuff Costs

1 USD = ~8700 kip
"k" means thousand

  • Private room with aircon, private bath, cable, double bed ~140k/night
  • Large Beerlao (640ml) in minimart --8k
  • Large Beerlao in western-oriented bar --13k
  • 750ml bottle Gordon's Gin--95k
  • 1L bottle purified water --1k (never pay more than 1k for the ugly cylindrical bottles. Name brand water will be significantly more)
  • Meal in a local place ~12k
  • Average meal --30k
  • Nice meal--60k
  • Very nice meal--120k
  • Pizza--50k
  • Small packet ramen noodles--2k
  • Baguette--10k
  • 3 pack Durex condoms--15k
  • Local condoms--seriously, go with Durex
  • New Nokia 1200 phone with simcard ~400k
  • Lao simcard--50k
  • 1 hour in internet cafe--4-6k
  • 7ooml bottle local whiskey--7-50k depending on type and quality

Things White People in Asia Like

*note: this is heavily influenced by the Stuff White People Like blog

Other White People

Socializing with other white people is the goal of any trip to Asia. White people will never admit this but instead talk about "discovering new cultures," "broadening their horizons," and "finding themselves." Although they are clearly lying, it is considered impolite to point this out. Instead, present opportunities for them to interact with locals in a controlled setting (like a store) or, even better, take them to a place with white clientele.

White People are herd animals by nature and are filled with an almost uncontrollable urge to join any predominantly white group they encounter, especially when there is music involved. White people almost invariably travel together.*

White people can be found mostly in bars and restaurants that advertise heavily in the free maps and guidebooks found at the airport. Their eyes will light up when they walk inside and gaze into an ocean of white faces. Although the food will be bad and the prices outrageous, congratulate them on finding "a local place few foreigners know about." Upon receiving a food or drink menu, the white people will always comment on how cheap everything is. If you again congratulate them on being savvy travelers who refuse to overpay, you will have fully earned their trust.

White people will inevitably find other groups of white people to talk to. They will most likely not talk to an asian person other than a waitress or bartender the entire night. In fact, most white people will never talk to an asian other than shopkeepers, taxi drivers, waiters, and hostel workers during their entire asian trip. Never point this out. White people will get extremely defensive and refuse further conversation if you do. To a white person, one of the most important parts of their trip is the illusion that they were able to truly experience another culture and its people. You must maintain this illusion if you wish to deal with white people on a regular basis.

*An aside: be very cautious of white people traveling alone. They will be insane, socially inept, or both. While it is sometimes possible to befriend them, their inability to understand social cues will most likely result in your embarrassment as well as dozens or hundreds of future emails. Remember, in the bizarre world of white transient culture, mere eye contact with another person in a hostel results in a life-long friendship, or at very least an exchange of travel-related stories. An inability to make friends in this environment is comparable to an inability to find companionship in a whorehouse.


Huge Backpacks

For white people, backpacks serve the same function as a peacock's tail. A large backpack is a sign of virility, stamina, and overall prowess as a traveler. When two white people meet, the one with the larger backpack becomes the dominant white person. But what happens if they aren't wearing backpacks? Trick question! White people are always found with them.

Some white people have taken to wearing an additional large backpack in the front. They will automatically win any confrontation with a uni-backpacked traveler. Presumably this trend will escalate to the point where we will see side-backpacks, head-backpacks, and backpack-backpacks. A white person so adorned would be incapable of movement but would nevertheless become the most dominant white person around.

Never suggest a more convenient receptacle for transporting enormous quantities of goods, such as a suitcase. Even if it has rollers or backpack straps for ease of transport, the educated white person knows that traveling with a suitcase results in a 73% decrease of freedom.


Androgyny

How do you tell the men from the women in Asia? This isn't the setup for a joke but rather a dilemma often confronting those dealing with white people. Males tend to be thin and delicate, with soft features and long flowing hair. A white person with a beard will usually, but not always, be male. Females tend to be physically imposing and can grow to enormous size. They are the dominant "enforcers" of the group and care should be taken when disagreeing with them.

When unsure of a particular white person's gender (as will often be the case), wait until another white person refers to them as "he" or "she." Until then, try to avoid referencing them in the third person as a mistake in this area will usually ruin or set back your relationship.

Laos Basics 4: Hospital, Crime, and Girls

Hospitals

Medical care here is terrible. Luckily Thailand is 30km away and has excellent facilities. Make sure you have travel health insurance that includes medical evacuation. This should be really cheap if you're young.


Crime

There is very little violent crime against foreigners. Most of it can be avoided by following four simple words: don't be a dumbass. Wander around strange parts of the city late at night? You're a dumbass. Leave your room unlocked? You're a dumbass. Leave your purse unattended? You're a dumbass. Bring a girl to your room then take a 20-minute shower by yourself with the door closed? You're a dumbass.


Lao Girls
Yes, what you've heard is true. It is technically illegal for men to
sleep with Lao women (or vice versa, homosexuals seem to be ok).
Officially the fine for this is $500-$5000. Even if there is nothing
sexual, merely sharing a room is a violation. I have never heard of
this being enforced for a casual fling but you have to understand
there's some risk involved.

Every hotel or guesthouse will have a sign saying that guests are not
allowed and many actually follow this. If you ask about this when
checking in, you will probably be told you need to come back alone.
In reality, the decision is usually made my the night manager. Many
places will turn a blind eye to what's going on. If you try someting
crazy like bringing back a bunch of ladyboys, you will not be allowed
in because of the potential for trouble.

The only time I've heard of a fine being imposed is when a boyfriend
and girlfriend are living together and haven't paid off the right
people.

If you're afraid of the locals, you can still sleep with as many
foreigners as you like. Many female travelers complain that no man
will look at them and often dramatically lower their standards. The
age of consent is 15.

Laos Basics 3: Transportation

Tuk-Tuks

Lao people will often tell you not to pay more than 5000 kip for a ride unless it is very far. It's adorable how naïve they can be. In practice, you will only get this local rate if you are going a very short distance (in which case you should walk, you lazy bastard) or if you have 4+ people traveling a short distance. As a foreigner, the best you can hope for is 10k and you'll probably have to settle for 12-15k. Never pay more than 20k per person, no matter how far away something is. Many tourists have been fooled by drivers talking about how "very very far" their destination is and BS about gas prices. Three minutes later they arrive at their destination and hand over two days' wages.


Even though it makes no sense, you pay by the person, not the destination. If you negotiate a price of 15k for a trip to the morning market and your friend walks by and decides to join you, the total is 30k, not 15 or even 20k.

Tuk-tuk drivers will sometimes pull shit when you arrive at your destination. For example, if you agreed on a price of 20k to take two people to location X, when you there he will often say 20k for each person. If something like this happens, just hand him the agreed-upon fee and leave. He can't call the police and he won't chase after you. He's counting on you being a pussy and giving him extra money. Don't be a pussy. One trick they like is to agree on 13k and when you arrive say "no, thir-ty." Again, if this happens, hand back the 13k, ignore him, and leave. Bonus points if you add something like "learn to count dumbass." An important note: always have exact change for the price you negotiate because they will not admit to carrying change. Never tip.


Lately tuk-tuk drivers have been breaking out printed sheets of paper with set prices. These are bullshit—don't pay anything close to this. If the driver insists, kick him in the balls. Over and over.


Taxis

There are no metered taxis in Laos. You can find unmetered ones in two main places: the airport and across from the morning market. Taxis at the airport are a set price of $6 (yes, dollars) for wherever you want to go. Tuk-tuks are available around the corner but if you're unfamiliar with the city it would probably be easier to get the taxi. Taxis across from the morning market usually go to the border for about 50k kip. There are some random taxis around town but these exist only to charge stupid white people ludicrous prices. Don't be a stupid white person.


Motorbikes.

There are no motorbike taxis here. I have no idea why. These can be rented for 50-70k/day or more for a big dirt bike. You would have a really tough time finding an automatic. If you've never driven a motorbike before, the city is not the place to learn. Make sure the driver and passenger have helmets or you will be stopped and fined.

Laos Basics 2: ATMs, Credit Cards, and Drugs

ATMs

Despite what you may have read, there are ATMs in Vientiane. In fact, there are a lot of them. The best ones are the JDB ATMs with blue signs. You can withdraw 1M kip at a time with a maximum of 3M per day. The fee is 20k kip per transaction on top of any fees charged by your bank. Some cards won't work at these ATMs so your next choice would be the BCEL machines with a max of 700k kip per transaction and fee of 20k.

UPDATE February 2009:

There is an ANZ Bank ATM on the corner near Bor Pen Nyang restaurant that will let you withdraw 2M kip (~$235USD) for a fee of 20k kip. This will cut your fees in half. I don't know if there are other ATM locations, if you see one let me know.

Credit Cards

Very few places other than hotels (not guesthouses) take credit cards.


Drugs

Pot is not legal, not decriminalized, not tolerated, and you can't smoke it publicly. A lot of people smoke and no one will care if they smell it, but try not to get caught with any. Prices range from insanely cheap to whatever idiot foreigners will pay. I don't smoke and don't have any advice on getting any.


Other drugs are available but far less common. The exception would be speed pills (yaa-baa) which cost around $2-5 per pill from what I understand. Be warned, this is much more serious than being caught with a joint. Opium is also available but way more expensive than you would think.


Your options for prescription drugs are limited. You would have a very difficult time getting a pharmacist to sell you painkillers or diet pills. Every pharmacy will gladly and openly sell you generic valium (Velium) which costs 15k for a blister pack of 10 10mg tablets. I either have some weird resistance to valium or these pills are really watered down. Your best option is Lexomil (Bromazapam) a drug very similar to xanax and manufactured by Roche. Many pharmacies don't have this but those that do will have no problem selling it to you. The price is about 10k for three 6mg bars, equivalent to 2mg xanax.

Laos Basics 1: Closing Times and Police

I'm going to write about some basic issues people are concerned about that aren't fully addressed elsewhere on the web. If you want information about popular tourist attractions or are curious about the population of Vientiane, this can be easily found elsewhere. Most of these are things people have heard about Laos or misconceptions they have.

Closing Time

Except for a few restaurants and of course the bars and clubs, most businesses are closed by 7 or 8. Don't make the same mistake I did and end up wandering around hungry at 9:00. Keep some food and water in your room for when you need it. Noodle shops are often open after midnight but not much later.

Bars and clubs are required to close at 11:30. In practice this is adhered to fairly closely and you'll usually have to leave by 12, 12:30 if you're very lucky. After this the one legit night spot is the disco at Don Chan Palace. If you're confused, this is the hotel that's the tallest building in the entire city. It will close any time between 1 and 4.


Police

In general the police will not harass you or shake you down for no reason. If you give them a reason, like openly smoking pot or blowing through a red light, they will be more than happy to supplement their income. It is advisable you have access to several hundred dollars in case you need to get out of a jam, even if you plan on doing nothing but sleeping and visiting temples.

When dealing with police, be pleasant and calm at all times. Absolutely do not pull any "I know my rights, give me your badge number" shit. This is not your country, you don't have rights, and people can make your life hell if they want.

If you've committed a crime (or "crime"), it's best to take care of it, ie pay money, at the scene. If you get taken to the police station, you'll have to pay off everyone on duty, and if you go to trial you'll have to pay off the whole damn government. That said, if you have money you would have to really fuck up in order to go to prison here. Nothing is guaranteed so I suggest you don't do anything stupid. Anything political should be avoided.

This applies only to Vientiane, I don't know what police are like in other areas.